This is the story of a lonely Christmas Eve, and Christmas day, in the mountains. I Left Pucon, a tourist hub, if you´ve been reading, a facade of chincy (sp.?) touristy outfits and expensive tours of things that make you feel hardcore, and bad coffee.
I hitched a ride to Temuco about a hundret km north with some mountain guides who, (small world) were good friends with my one contact in Pucon (a friend of a friend). I guess the world of alpine climbing is small. After another bus ride a wait in the rain and some more hitchhiking (a bit sketchy one of them) and a half hour trek up the mountain in the rain to arrive at a Ruka cabin, a small wood and mud cabin perched on the edge of a mountainside - river, wind, trees, cows... no electricity, no phone... just fields, trees and abundant firewood. I spent christmas eve day working in the field and then the two guys who live in the community (they are activists and have this commune where they share everything, grow their own stuff and accept volunteers, as well as rugged conscientious tourists). Suddenly they asked me what day it was, I told them the 24th and so they said they had an important meeting in Melipeuco, the nearest town. So we cooked up a big lunch on the ruka fire and then went out back and drank mate and talked about all sorts of things, then they left. I worked a bit longer in the fields, made myself a nice christmas eve dinner of cabbage, onion, garlic aji (a local hot pepper) oil and lemon salad on fire baked flour tortillas that I made. Then I broke out my stash of chocolate!!
The next day, christmas, I took my time preparing breakfast and after a cup of warm milk went to work in the fields until about 2...etc.
They told me they would be back by 12 on Christmas day. Today, the 26th, at 12 they were still not here, so, worried, lonely and clostrophobic, I packed my bags and started the long trek into town to find out what was going on, and if not, to leave. The first ride I got I thought I´d take - a big lumber truck driven by two old guys. I threw my stuff in the back with the lumber and jumped in - they locked the steel gated door behind me and we made our way into town. I got out, dusty, onto the main street and the first person I saw was Eric, one of the two guys from the community- having no phone there was no way they could contact me to tell me they would be coming two days later. We were going to go up tonight but instead we´ll go tomorrow morning as there is no bus and we don´t fancy hitchhiking...
Thats my brief, poorly told, christmas story!!
I must say though, today as the rain drove down and the clouds blew by like spectres until I couldn´t see anything, it was beautiful, but I had not prepared for so much solitude - I think its easier to confront when you mentally and emotionallly prepare for it. but as I was expecting company (and these guys are great!) I was extremely lonelyand thought a lot about my family, my friends, and really, how lucky I am to have such fantastic people in my life!!! Sounds cheesy I know, but its what I was thinking. Anyway im going back to the Trafkura house (the little hostel these guys have in town) to relax. The next days will bring lots of hard work, good chat, and great food. I hope to help out building the second Ruka house and the composting toilet (of which there are already 2 - very cool!! look it up).
I just remembered a whole bunch more stuff! I met a woman in Pucon my final night that has walked from California to Santiago Chile promoting sustainable living and the cesation of petroleum consumption!!! WOW - later I´ll post her link but i don´t have it with me.
anyway this has been the worst post by far but i had so much to say, so little time and I´m on a bit of a high, unfocussed...etc.
Thats all for now, the next post will a) be more coherent and b)be of a higher quality as it seems I have developed a reputation that I am currently not living up to!!!
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